Wednesday, November 5
Our group awoke at 6 a.m. just in time to hear the results of the U.S. presidential election as they were announced at home. Discussion at breakfast centered around Obama's victory, and what that might mean both at home and here in Israel. Politics was cut short, however, by the need to get our bags onto the buses and be ready to leave at 8 a.m.
The first-timers headed straight up Israel's Route 90 to Bet Shean National Park, one of the largest archaeological sites in Israel. The biblical tel, the site where the Philistines hung the bodies of Saul and Jonathan after their deaths, towers over excavations exposing a vast Roman-Byzantine city. The Roman theater, the largest found in Israel, is still used today. The long, wide colonnaded streets are amazing, and are substantially wider than the Cardo we saw in Jerusalem. The sheer size of the place is the thing that probably astonished us the most.
Before our quick lunch in Tiberias, we stopped at the Kinneret Cemetery and heard about the dreams of the early Zionist pioneers. Then, we headed to Safed. We toured the synagogues which were home to many of the Jewish mystics who lived in Sfat, and we strolled past art galleries and shops. Our last visit was to the Safed Candle Factory, and it was after dark when we finally pulled into our hotel to check in.
The returnees also began their drive up Route 90, but we stopped very soon after passing Jericho at Moshav Naama. There we were met by Dubi Tal, the Mayor of the Jordan Valley Regional Council. He took us to see the moshav's huge greenhouses filled with the most gorgeous fresh organic herbs. We were told all about how they are grown, shipped, and marketed to the US and Europe. We also saw the acres of date palms which the moshav also raises.
We had a chance to taste the dates for ourselves at the Guy-Li Cafe at the moshav. Liora, the owner, refreshed us with dates which were deemed to be the best anyone had ever tasted, as well as lemon tea, coffee, and pastries. While we relaxed, she told us the story of the cafe, which was founded by her son Guy.
After thanking Liora and promising to always remember Guy, we drove down a narrow unpaved road to an overlook just by the Jordan River (we were let through the security fence by two young soldiers--usually tourists don't go there!) Dubi explained the reservoir system to us as we looked at the reservoir below and toward Jordanian farms on the other side of the river. The reservoir held quite a bit of water as a result of last week's heavy rains. We have been so lucky to have perfect weather--last week it was raining, and Dubi pointed out that the green is just beginning to come back to the dun-colored hills. In a few weeks they should be green again, but for now, the southern Jordan Valley area has very little vegetation other than Israeli farms.
We drove north again, and after stopping for lunch at a small mall in Bet Shean, we drove to see the archeological park. Our visit was enhanced by Gene Corburn, who demonstrated the acoustics of the Roman theater for us. He climbed down to the reconstructed stage, and in his wonderful cantorial tenor voice, sang us first a Shema, and then a blessing for peace. We applauded enthusiastically, but had to cut short his doo-wop encore so we could let our guide tell us all the details of vast expanse of buildings that lay at our feet.
As we arrived at Tiberias, we stopped at the Kinneret Cemetery, which is the final resting place of many of the founding pioneers of the State of Israel. As we sat by her grave, Mike told us about Rachel the Poetess, an early settler of Israel, many of whose poems have become well known songs. Many other settlers, young and old, rest in this lovely shaded spot overlooking Lake Kinneret. Especially moving were the stories of those who came, worked the land, but lie in graves marked "Unknown"; and those who left their kibbutz nearby to fight and fall while winning independence for Israel in 1948.
Our final quick stop before the hotel was at another tomb, this of Rabbi Meir Ba'al HaNess. Rabbi Meir, who helped write the Mishnah, is known for working miracles, and his tomb is housed in a small complex containing a yeshiva, study areas, and a few gift shops. The contrast between the two burial sites was like night and day, but both of these extremes represent precious eras in the history of the Jewish people.
Our group awoke at 6 a.m. just in time to hear the results of the U.S. presidential election as they were announced at home. Discussion at breakfast centered around Obama's victory, and what that might mean both at home and here in Israel. Politics was cut short, however, by the need to get our bags onto the buses and be ready to leave at 8 a.m.
The first-timers headed straight up Israel's Route 90 to Bet Shean National Park, one of the largest archaeological sites in Israel. The biblical tel, the site where the Philistines hung the bodies of Saul and Jonathan after their deaths, towers over excavations exposing a vast Roman-Byzantine city. The Roman theater, the largest found in Israel, is still used today. The long, wide colonnaded streets are amazing, and are substantially wider than the Cardo we saw in Jerusalem. The sheer size of the place is the thing that probably astonished us the most.
Before our quick lunch in Tiberias, we stopped at the Kinneret Cemetery and heard about the dreams of the early Zionist pioneers. Then, we headed to Safed. We toured the synagogues which were home to many of the Jewish mystics who lived in Sfat, and we strolled past art galleries and shops. Our last visit was to the Safed Candle Factory, and it was after dark when we finally pulled into our hotel to check in.
The returnees also began their drive up Route 90, but we stopped very soon after passing Jericho at Moshav Naama. There we were met by Dubi Tal, the Mayor of the Jordan Valley Regional Council. He took us to see the moshav's huge greenhouses filled with the most gorgeous fresh organic herbs. We were told all about how they are grown, shipped, and marketed to the US and Europe. We also saw the acres of date palms which the moshav also raises.
We had a chance to taste the dates for ourselves at the Guy-Li Cafe at the moshav. Liora, the owner, refreshed us with dates which were deemed to be the best anyone had ever tasted, as well as lemon tea, coffee, and pastries. While we relaxed, she told us the story of the cafe, which was founded by her son Guy.
After thanking Liora and promising to always remember Guy, we drove down a narrow unpaved road to an overlook just by the Jordan River (we were let through the security fence by two young soldiers--usually tourists don't go there!) Dubi explained the reservoir system to us as we looked at the reservoir below and toward Jordanian farms on the other side of the river. The reservoir held quite a bit of water as a result of last week's heavy rains. We have been so lucky to have perfect weather--last week it was raining, and Dubi pointed out that the green is just beginning to come back to the dun-colored hills. In a few weeks they should be green again, but for now, the southern Jordan Valley area has very little vegetation other than Israeli farms.
We drove north again, and after stopping for lunch at a small mall in Bet Shean, we drove to see the archeological park. Our visit was enhanced by Gene Corburn, who demonstrated the acoustics of the Roman theater for us. He climbed down to the reconstructed stage, and in his wonderful cantorial tenor voice, sang us first a Shema, and then a blessing for peace. We applauded enthusiastically, but had to cut short his doo-wop encore so we could let our guide tell us all the details of vast expanse of buildings that lay at our feet.
As we arrived at Tiberias, we stopped at the Kinneret Cemetery, which is the final resting place of many of the founding pioneers of the State of Israel. As we sat by her grave, Mike told us about Rachel the Poetess, an early settler of Israel, many of whose poems have become well known songs. Many other settlers, young and old, rest in this lovely shaded spot overlooking Lake Kinneret. Especially moving were the stories of those who came, worked the land, but lie in graves marked "Unknown"; and those who left their kibbutz nearby to fight and fall while winning independence for Israel in 1948.
Our final quick stop before the hotel was at another tomb, this of Rabbi Meir Ba'al HaNess. Rabbi Meir, who helped write the Mishnah, is known for working miracles, and his tomb is housed in a small complex containing a yeshiva, study areas, and a few gift shops. The contrast between the two burial sites was like night and day, but both of these extremes represent precious eras in the history of the Jewish people.
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